When last we saw our intrepid hero he had ran out of time right after using a 1/2 inch chisel to square up the mortises cut buy his plunge router...
This weekend I start by cutting the tenons in the top and bottom of the Stickley Music Stand. I set up the dado blade for 3/4 inch and attach a sacrificial fence to the table saw. I set the blade height by eye lower than it should be and run a scrap board through then test the fit, and adjust 
the height until it fits snugly. Once the setting is correct I run the top and bottom through the dado and readjust the fence to 1 1/8th total cut, this allows the tenon to fit through the 3/4 inch thick side and protrude 3/8 inch. I test fit the shelves and mark a line 1/4 inch above the side all the way around the tenon.
the height until it fits snugly. Once the setting is correct I run the top and bottom through the dado and readjust the fence to 1 1/8th total cut, this allows the tenon to fit through the 3/4 inch thick side and protrude 3/8 inch. I test fit the shelves and mark a line 1/4 inch above the side all the way around the tenon.
After taking the test fit apart I set up a router with a 3/4 inch blade 1/4 inch deep and set up the guide so that the bit runs just at the edge of the side.
I mark a line at the center point of each shelf and carefully start and stop the rabbet at each line. Then I run the top and bottom the same way. Using a sharp chisel square up the corners.
I bevel the tenons to the line I marked around the tenons. Run a bead of glue along the edge of the shelves and on the inner half of the shoulders of the tenons then assemble and clamp the cabinet.
The tenons for this cabinet are pegged so after the glue has dried I drill a 1/4 inch hole from the front of the cabinet through the tenons. Putting some glue in the holes I drive a walnut dowel into the hole.
Using a flush cut saw I trim the dowels flush.
This cabinet has adjustable shelves which are very easy to create, I use a left over piece of pegboard with marks every 2 inches starting 12 inches from the bottom and ending 12 inches from the top. I picked a row 2 1/2 inches from the back and using a stop collar on a 1/4 brad point bit drill a 1/2 inch deep hole every 2 inches on center. Next I move the pegboard to the front of the board and repeat on a row 2 1/2 inches from the front. Follow this with the other side being careful to reference off the same shelf.
What you end up with is a nice row of parallel holes just the right size to hold adjustable shelf pins.
Next comes the ship lapped back boards, I picked some less than perfect boards from my stock and cut them to length. After running them through the drum sander I rip them to width making sure to leave extra width for the overlap. I set up the sacrificial fence as before and the dado at a little wider than 3/8 inch. I ran one side of two boards and two opposite sides of the rest of the boards through the dado.
I bet you thought pennies weren't good for anything didn't you? Well they are the perfect size to space ship lapped boards. The space is to allow for any swelling of the boards and the lap is to allow for any shrinkage. Wood expands much more across the width than along the length, so you can glue the sides of the cabinet to the side ship lapped boards but do not glue the ship lapped boards together along the length.
The back splash is attached simply with a little glue and clamps, after drying I drill holes for dowels, glue and insert them, then cut them flush.
I repeat this procedure for the toe kick at the bottom front, setting it in 1/2 inch.
I bevel the tenons to the line I marked around the tenons. Run a bead of glue along the edge of the shelves and on the inner half of the shoulders of the tenons then assemble and clamp the cabinet.
The tenons for this cabinet are pegged so after the glue has dried I drill a 1/4 inch hole from the front of the cabinet through the tenons. Putting some glue in the holes I drive a walnut dowel into the hole.
Using a flush cut saw I trim the dowels flush.
This cabinet has adjustable shelves which are very easy to create, I use a left over piece of pegboard with marks every 2 inches starting 12 inches from the bottom and ending 12 inches from the top. I picked a row 2 1/2 inches from the back and using a stop collar on a 1/4 brad point bit drill a 1/2 inch deep hole every 2 inches on center. Next I move the pegboard to the front of the board and repeat on a row 2 1/2 inches from the front. Follow this with the other side being careful to reference off the same shelf.
What you end up with is a nice row of parallel holes just the right size to hold adjustable shelf pins.
Next comes the ship lapped back boards, I picked some less than perfect boards from my stock and cut them to length. After running them through the drum sander I rip them to width making sure to leave extra width for the overlap. I set up the sacrificial fence as before and the dado at a little wider than 3/8 inch. I ran one side of two boards and two opposite sides of the rest of the boards through the dado.
I bet you thought pennies weren't good for anything didn't you? Well they are the perfect size to space ship lapped boards. The space is to allow for any swelling of the boards and the lap is to allow for any shrinkage. Wood expands much more across the width than along the length, so you can glue the sides of the cabinet to the side ship lapped boards but do not glue the ship lapped boards together along the length.
The back splash is attached simply with a little glue and clamps, after drying I drill holes for dowels, glue and insert them, then cut them flush.
I repeat this procedure for the toe kick at the bottom front, setting it in 1/2 inch.
The Music Cabinet body is now complete, join us next week when our intrepid hero makes a frame and panel door and inside shelves, and completes construction on this project, then perhaps he can even begin the finishing process... same Bat time, same Bat channel.
1 comment:
I can't wait to see what it looks like when it's finished! It's amazing to see how these projects take shape.
I really enjoyed your previous post as well. Most of the projects we do always seem to cost as much as they would retail (most of my needlework costs more! Wool is insanely expensive). But as you say--that's not the point--these are hobbies that give meaning and joy to our lives. And as you say, your pieces are heirlooms--not the kind of "disposable" furniture that is so rampant these days.
Keep crafting!
Margaret
Post a Comment